3D Model
For this project, I used the bust model from my Reek Cast Series, based on a creature from Star Wars. I used Rhino to slice the model every .25 inch, and lay out the pieces. In addition, I added joints for the horn and tusks, so they could be added to the constructed model separately.
Construction
To construct this model, I stacked the pieces with two pieces of PVC pipe running through the core, and used a spray Locite adhesive to hold the pieces in place. I also chose to run wires through the PVC, and drill holes at the layer they eyes would be, for lighting in the future. After putting holes in the PVC, I simply poked the wires through the corrugation in the cardboard.
Surfacing
To surface this sculpture, I first encased the cardboard in masking tape. Next, I used Sculpting Epoxy to sculpt the horn and tusks. For the remainder of the body, I used Aqua Resin in several coats. I tried to let the resin run thick, so I had less brush strokes. Before the resin dried, I used a little water and my bare hands to smooth it over, as a type of wet sanding, to get the desired texture. The bottom half of the model was given an intentional rough texture by taping the tip of the brush on the Resin while it was still wet.
To create a better seam for the horn, I added some quick setting epoxy to the skull around the horn to make it seem more natural.
Finishing
The entire model was first primed with black spray primer. To finish the horn and tusks, I removed the tusks, and taped off the horn, and painted them with a glossy off white color. Then, to protect them from chipping, I clear coated them with a gloss crystal clear coat.
Before painting the body, I created eyes by hot gluing three LEDs together, and using a wet finger to mold the hot glue into a smooth form, while it was still hot. After soldering the 'eyes' to the wires run through the head, and protecting them with more hot glue, I drilled out the eye sockets and embedded them into the head. After the eyes were in place, I sculpted eyelids with quick setting epoxy and re-primed the area. The LEDs are wired into a single watch battery with a switch and battery pack embedded in the bottom of the model.
To paint the body, I started first with a wash of very thin grey paint, to fill all the cracks and give it a grey, dusty, dry look. Then, I did some detail work with some yellows and greens, in cracks and crevices to add a dirty mossy look, as well as a splash of natural color. The bottom was coated heavily in a dark green color, and then dry brushed with brown across the whole thing. Finally the entire sculpture was dry brushed with pure white to bring out all the highlights and give it a final stone look.
The horns and tusks were given a more natural ivory look by rubbing a dirt brown color on by hand, with a paper towel. After discovering glue wouldn't be enough to hold them, the tusks were set into the model with screws, which were then painted over.
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